Emulsifier-free Creams – Build up the Skin Barrier instead of Weakening It
While traditional creams are based on classic emulsifiers, emulsifier-free, lamellar creams and serums take a different approach: their lipids are arranged in numerous, extremely thin double layers. This lamellar structure resembles and biomimetically mimics the natural structure of the skin barrier.
As a reminder: The skin barrier, as the protective surface of the epidermis, consists of dead skin cells that are firmly bound together by a lipid mortar, much like a brick wall. This mortar is primarily composed of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids.
The biomimetic, lamellar technology is particularly relevant for dry, sensitive, and barrier-disrupted skin.
Corneotherapy and Lamellar Skincare
The principle of lamellar skincare is closely linked to Corneotherapy. This skin-physiological care concept focuses on the stratum corneum and the stabilization of its natural barrier function.
So-called DMS creams (Derma Membrane Structure) are also known in this context. Their lipids form lamellar structures that resemble the layered structure of the natural skin barrier.
The emulsifier-free care concept developed by us adopts this barrier-oriented basic idea and implements it with its own lamellar emulsion technology. The focus is not only on supplying the skin with moisture and lipids but also on their structural arrangement as close to the skin as possible.
The Consequences of a Damaged Skin Barrier
A disturbed, porous skin barrier not only shows a deficiency but also an altered composition and distribution of ceramides and other barrier lipids. What are the consequences?
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Water evaporates faster (increased TEWL = transepidermal water loss)
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Irritants and allergens can penetrate more easily
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Inflammatory processes are promoted
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the skin reacts more sensitively to external influences
The most important goal of suitable care is therefore to supplement a weakened skin barrier with lipids that are as skin-identical as possible and to support its natural, ordered structure.
Classic Creams with Emulsifiers and the Wash-out Effect
Most creams contain emulsifiers that stably combine water and oil. These surface-active substances have a hydrophilic (water-loving) and a lipophilic (fat-loving) molecular part.
The problem: Emulsifiers not only combine the oily and aqueous components of a cream, but they can also dissolve the skin's own lipids from the skin barrier. When exposed to water again, the skin's own lipids are then washed out.
This so-called wash-out effect has been discussed for many years in connection with emulsifier-containing skincare products. It is particularly relevant for dry, sensitive, and already barrier-disrupted skin.
Possible consequences of increased lipid loss are:
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increasing skin dryness
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feeling of tightness
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increased permeability of the skin barrier
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greater sensitivity to external stimuli
For an already weakened skin barrier, emulsifier-free, barrier-oriented care with a lamellar structure is therefore essential.
Emulsifier-free Creams with Lamellar Structure
The crucial difference lies in the structure. In a classic cream, emulsifiers, for example, stabilize fine oil droplets distributed in a water phase. The natural skin barrier, however, is organized differently: its barrier lipids form numerous densely packed, superimposed lipid layers, so-called lipid lamellae, between the corneocytes. This ordered, layered structure is crucial for the skin to retain water and limit the penetration of external irritants.
Classic emulsions therefore have a different structure than the natural lipid barrier. Their primary task is to stably combine oil and water within a cream, not to replicate the lamellar structure of the skin barrier.
Emulsifier-free, lamellar creams address precisely this point: Their lipids are already present in ordered layers that are oriented towards the natural structure of the barrier lipids. The skin thus receives not only lipids but skin-similar arranged lipid structures.
This lamellar arrangement offers particular advantages:
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it supports the reduction of transepidermal water loss
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it supports the natural barrier against external irritants
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it structurally supplements the lipid barrier
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it supports the suppleness and resilience of the skin
Conclusion: Strengthening the Skin Barrier with Emulsifier-free, Lamellar Care
An intact skin barrier is an essential prerequisite for long-term healthy and resilient skin. Suitable care should therefore not only provide moisture and lipids but also be as closely oriented to the natural structure of the stratum corneum as possible and not additionally burden an already weakened barrier.
The Ceramide Soothing Mask supports the care of a dry and weakened skin barrier with 45% lipid content and a lamellar structure.
The emulsifier-free care concept from myrto Natural Cosmetics follows the basic principles of corneotherapy but takes its own path with an independently developed lamellar emulsion technology. Instead of classic emulsifiers, lamellarly arranged, skin-like lipid structures are used, which are oriented towards the natural layered structure of the skin barrier.
Phosphatidylcholine and plant-based lipids support the lipid barrier, while Beta Glucan adds skin-soothing and moisture-binding properties. At the same time, classic emulsifiers and thus their wash-out effect on the barrier lipids are avoided.
This biomimetic approach is therefore more than just the mere omission of emulsifiers: The entire formulation structure is designed to mimic the natural architecture of the skin barrier as skin-identically as possible.
The innovation performance behind this technology was also recognized by the state: In 2024, myrto Naturkosmetik received a funding award from the Federal Ministry of Education and Research (BMBF) for the development of its emulsifier-free, lamellar emulsion technology. The award underscores the company's own research efforts, with which myrto develops its skin barrier-friendly formulations in its own manufactory.
