Hyaluronic acid regenerates the tissue, tightens and keeps the skin elastic. Hardly any other cosmetic ingredient is able to moisturize the skin as effectively as hyaluronic acid: 1 gram of hyaluronic acid is able to bind up to 6 liters of water. The individual hyaluron molecules in the skin suck in the water like small magnets and can store it.
Studies have found that hyaluronic acid also stimulates fibroblasts in the lower layers of the skin. Hyaluronic acid also stimulates the formation of new collagen and elastin and supports the development of a stable skin structure.
What is hyaluronic acid?
Hyaluronic acid (INCI names: sodium hyaluronate, hyaluronic acid or hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate) is an endogenous component of our cells that is produced by the body itself. From a chemical point of view, hyaluronic acid is a multiple sugar (polysaccharide). The name hyaluronic acid is derived from the Greek word hyalos = glass and the component glucuronic acid it contains.
Hyaluronic acid has little to do with the usual properties of an acid, because hyaluronic acid is neither acidic nor skin-irritating. The connective tissue cells of the hypodermis produce the hyaluronic acid themselves. The gel-like substance is stored between the epidermis (upper skin) and the underlying dermis (skin) as part of the connective tissue.
How is hyaluronic acid made?
Previously, hyaluronic acid was extracted from animal materials such as rooster combs. The animal protein contained in it triggered increased allergies. Today, biotechnologically produced hyaluron is used, which is extremely well tolerated by the skin. Allergies or intolerance to hyaluronic acid are therefore practically non-existent.
Where is hyaluronic acid found in our body?
Hyaluronic acid is a main component of joint fluid (synovia). It serves as a lubricant to keep the joints supple and protect the articular cartilage. Hyaluronic acid also forms the basic lattice of the cartilage structure. Firm and stable cartilage is not possible without hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid also demonstrates its impressive water-binding properties in the human eye: the vitreous body of the eye consists of 98% water, which is bound by only 2% hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is therefore a central active ingredient in eye drops for moistening dry, irritated eyes, such as can occur when working at a computer screen or when using contact lenses.
How does a hyaluronic acid deficiency come about?
Unfortunately, over the years, the proportion of hyaluronic acid in the body naturally decreases. While the hyaluronic acid content of the skin is 0.33% at the age of 20, it is only 0.007% at the age of 70 and thus decreases by 98% with age. The result is dry, rough skin with reduced resilience, elasticity and increased wrinkling. It is precisely these signs of aging that hyaluronic acid successfully counteracts in skin care. If the skin is regularly supplied with additional hyaluronic acid over a longer period of time, it replenishes itself and wrinkles are reduced.
For which skin is hyaluronic acid suitable?
It doesn't matter whether you have very sensitive, dry, mature skin or skin that is prone to impurities: hyaluronic acid is suitable for every skin type. In particular, dehydrated, dry skin with a weakened skin barrier can benefit greatly from hyaluronic acid. A facial serum with high doses of hyaluronic acid is therefore a useful basic care when it comes to delaying the aging process of the skin and keeping the skin wrinkle-free, firm and youthful for as long as possible.
What types of hyaluronic acid are there and how do they work?
Hyaluronic acid in cosmetics is not always the same. In principle, a distinction is made between high-molecular and low-molecular hyaluronic acid with different molecular weights. The molecular sizes are measured in the atomic mass unit kDa ( = kilodalton; 1 kDa = 1000 Da = dalton).
- High molecular weight hyaluronic acid (INCI: sodium hyaluronate)
High-molecular or long-chain hyaluronic acid remains on the skin's surface. Due to its molecular size, it cannot penetrate the skin, has an immediate effect, but only for a short time. High-molecular hyaluronic acid has film-forming properties. It protects against moisture loss, inhibits inflammation and temporarily plumps up fine lines and wrinkles. High molecular weight hyaluronic acid usually has a molecular size of 1500 kD and larger. - Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (INCI: sodium hyaluronate)
Low-molecular or short-chain hyaluronic acid is able to penetrate deeper into the skin and bind moisture there in the long term. This makes the skin appear firmer and small wrinkles are padded out. The body's own collagen production is stimulated. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid usually has a molecular size of 50 kD and smaller. Low-molecular hyaluronic acid is mostly used in higher-priced products because it is comparatively expensive. - Oligo or ultra-low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (INCI: sodium hyaluronate)
Ultra-low molecular weight or oligo-hyaluronic acid has a molecular mass of 3kD and smaller. This innovative variant of an extremely short-chain hyaluronic acid is stored in the connective tissue of the skin. It has the ability to penetrate particularly deeply into the skin. It strengthens and tightens the skin structure in the long term. The body's own collagen production is stimulated. Oligo hyaluronic acid is very expensive.
What is the ideal concentration of hyaluronic acid in a face serum?
Many manufacturers of cosmetic hyaluronic acid serums advertise using concentrations of 10% or more. However, this is a mixture of hyaluronic acid and water, with the actual hyaluronic acid concentration being only 0.1% - 0.2%.
The ideal dosage for a powerful hyaluronic serum is 1% pure hyaluronic acid. The largest proportion should consist of ultra-low-molecular or oligo-hyaluron. Products with an even higher hyaluron content, especially with high-molecular hyaluronic acid, result in an uncomfortable feeling on the skin. They have a slightly sticky effect on the skin and can roll off or form small rolls in combination with other face care products.
The myrto Hyaluron Serum 300 contains 1% pure hyaluronic acid in its most concentrated form. The serum consists of high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acids, which penetrate deep into the skin and ensure intensive moisture supply and storage with a depot effect. All other myrto facial serums contain 0.3 - 0.4% pure hyaluronic acid in addition to their specific combination of active ingredients for the different skin needs.
Conclusion
Hyaluronic acid as a skin-identical ingredient is actually one of the best means of moisturizing the skin, especially in the combination of different molecular sizes. We can successfully counteract the decreasing hyaluronic acid content of our skin over the years with the help of a highly concentrated facial serum.
However, you should never use an oil-free, high-dose hyaluronic serum as the sole skin care product, so that the bound water does not immediately evaporate from your skin and the skin becomes uncomfortably tight. A moisturizing face cream or a face oil over a high-dose hyaluronic acid serum are therefore a must. This locks in moisture and protects your skin from drying out.
