Skin blemishes and pimples have a variety of causes, the complexity of which can hardly be completely traced. Sometimes, however, the skin simply reacts sensitively to so-called comedogenic substances that are used in cosmetics.
What is comedogenic?
Komedo (Latin: comedere = to eat with) is the technical term for the blackhead as a precursor to a pimple. This is nothing more than a clogged pore, often with a blackish, greasy plug (blackhead) in the middle. If the skin is excessively calloused, the sebaceous glands become blocked and dilate. This results in enlarged pores, which result in blackheads, inflammatory pimples, papules, pustules or deposits.
A cream with comedogenic ingredients promotes the formation of comedones. A non-comedogenic skin cream is therefore essential, especially if you have oily or combination skin that is prone to blemishes, blackheads or pimples.
There is no legal regulation as to which products can be described as “non-comedogenic” by cosmetics manufacturers. However, there are long lists of ingredients that are considered comedogenic. Each ingredient is assigned a factor between 1 and 5, depending on the level of comedogenicity. It is hardly possible to create a complete and generally applicable list of comedogenic ingredients because individual skin reactions can be very different. For example, you can find a list of comedogenic ingredients here: https://www.hautschutzengel.de/komedogene-inhaltsstoffe.html
To be really sure that your cosmetics do not contain any comedogenic ingredients, you should check the individual ingredients on the INCI list, for example at Codecheck, and also compare them with the list of comedogenic ingredients.
Which ingredients are comedogenic?
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Comedogenic ingredients from mineral oil
Cosmetic ingredients made from mineral oil such as paraffins, silicones, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), PEG-based emulsifiers and synthetic surfactants from earth are considered to be particularly comedogenic Oil raw materials such as SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate), SLeS (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) or artificial fragrances. Mineral oil-based ingredients are not permitted in natural cosmetics. -
Comedogenic animal fats
Lanolin/wool fat or lanolin alcohol, both approved ingredients for natural cosmetics, also tend to clog the pores. -
Comedogenic plant oils
Some plant oils can also promote impurities: for example cocoa butter, linseed oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, Olive or coconut oil. Comedogenic oils are not suitable for impure skin, but can still offer well-tolerated, particularly rich care for mature and dry skin. -
Comedogenic ingredients from palm oil
Especially in natural cosmetics, the ecologically controversial palm oil is hidden behind various and changing names. Unfortunately, it often makes up the largest proportion of the lipid phase in natural cosmetic creams and lotions. Here Codecheck helps you to detect and avoid palm oil ingredients in your cosmetics.What is hardly known: The palm oil-based emulsifiers, co-emulsifiers and consistency agents commonly used in natural cosmetics, such as glyceryl stearate, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or myristyl myristate, have a comedogenic effect. This means they tend to seal the skin, clog pores and promote impurities such as blackheads, pimples and acne.
Anti-comedogenic ingredients
Shea butter, babassu oil, hemp seed oil, prickly pear seed oil, rosehip seed oil and pomegranate seed oil, for example, have a low degree of comedogenicity. Particularly recommended non-comedogenic plant oils for impure, oily or combination skin are jojoba, argan or grape seed oil. Jojoba oil regulates sebum production, cannot be metabolized by the dreaded acne bacteria and allows pimples to heal faster. Argan oil has an antibacterial effect against impurities, provides a lot of moisture and can visibly improve the complexion of acne. Grape seed oil with its high linoleic acid content strengthens the skin barrier, ensures a smooth complexion and works against hardening of the skin. Grape seed oil is also known for its sebum-regulating and anti-inflammatory effects on skin problems. Grape seed oil is the essential component of the anti-inflammatory myrto grape seed facial care.
Plant extracts with antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, calming or redness-reducing active ingredients such as beta-glucan, green tea, licorice root, rosemary, sage, copaiba, lucuma, or magnolia bark also have a powerful anti-comedogenic effect. Active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, aloe vera or glycerin, which provide the skin with additional moisture, are also recommended against impurities.
Instead of the comedogenic palm oil-based emulsifiers, co-emulsifiers and consistency agents that are otherwise common in natural cosmetics, at myrto we only use shea butter. Shea butter as the sole consistency provider requires a high concentration in all skin creams and requires a much more complex and time-consuming manufacturing process as well as significantly higher raw material costs compared to usual recipes with large-scale industrially produced palm oil derivatives.
Conclusion
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Avoid comedogenic ingredients in your cosmetics if your skin is prone to impurities.
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Every skin reacts differently. If your acne, pimples or blemishes seem to be getting worse with certain cosmetics, you should switch to a different product range.
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As a natural cosmetic alternative to comedogenic emulsifiers, co-emulsifiers and consistency enhancers made from palm oil, there are emulsifier-free creams and lotions that also do not contain any palm oil. Instead of the usual natural cosmetic emulsifiers made from palm oil, our myrto products contain finely ground plant fibers that hold the oil and water phase of a cream together. The natural active ingredient beta-glucan from oats also ensures a powerful anti-inflammatory, anti-comedogenic effect.
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When buying your cosmetics, pay particular attention to good ingredients so that your skin gets exactly the care it needs. With a little patience and consistency, you can bring your skin back into balance so that pimples and blackheads are finally a thing of the past.
